In the world of Pokémon Trading Card Game collecting, especially for the original Base Set released back in 1999, the term “4th Print” refers to the fourth batch of cards produced by the printers during the initial manufacturing runs of that set. These print runs happened one after another as demand exploded for the game, and each one had tiny differences that collectors spot today to tell them apart. Think of it like chapters in a book’s printing history—each print is a fresh run off the presses, fixing small issues or just making more copies because kids everywhere wanted Charizard cards.
To get why this matters, let’s step back to how Base Set came to be. Wizards of the Coast, the company handling Pokémon cards in English back then, rushed out the Base Set to meet huge hype after the Japanese version took off. They printed cards in waves, starting with the super rare “1st Edition” ones that have that special black stamp in the bottom left corner saying it’s the very first print. After that came “Shadowless” prints, which dropped the dark shadow outline around the artwork box to make holos shine brighter. Then Unlimited prints followed, with those shadows back and no edition stamp, meant for wider sales.
The 4th Print slots into this timeline as part of the early Unlimited runs. It’s not as famous as 1st Edition or Shadowless, but savvy collectors chase it because it’s from those initial floods of cards hitting stores. According to detailed guides on vintage Pokémon printing, the Base Set had at least four distinct print runs in the UK market alone, with the 4th one fixing specific errors seen in earlier batches. For example, some errors like ink smudges or text glitches got cleaned up by the time the 4th print rolled out, making those later cards a bit cleaner overall[2].
Spotting a 4th Print card isn’t about a big label screaming “4th Print!”—no card says that outright. Instead, you look for subtle clues under good light or with a magnifier. One big tell is the blue color on the card’s back. Early prints, like 1st Edition and Shadowless, often have a lighter, more vibrant blue that’s almost electric. By the 4th Print in Unlimited, that blue shifts to a deeper, richer tone without any purple hints creeping in. Real cards from this run show a clean rosette dot pattern if you zoom in on the ink—tiny dots arranged perfectly, not blurry or uneven like fakes[1].
Another clue hides in the borders and artwork box. Shadowless cards (prints 1-2ish) have super light yellow borders and no shadow, giving holos that smooth, classic shine focused right in the art area. Unlimited starts around the 3rd print with shadows returning and borders darkening a tad. The 4th Print refines this further—borders stay a solid, non-neon yellow, fonts look sharp without fuzzy edges, and the holo foil layer sits flat without weird lines or “foil lines” bleeding out too much. Holo bleed, where shine creeps past the art box, can happen normally on vintage cards from any early print, including the 4th, but it’s not a flaw—it’s just how the foil was stamped on some sheets[1].
Printing tech back then played a huge role. Cards start with thick paper stock, then a mirrored foil layer gets added under the art for holos. Ink goes on top, but clear spots let light bounce back for that sparkle. In the 4th Print, this process got dialed in better after earlier runs had hiccups like double-printed backs or inverted errors on sheets. Bulbapedia notes that some Fossil set errors, like a yellow ink hickey on Gengar backs, were fixed precisely in the 4th Base Set print released only in the UK—those three identical copies found were from prior runs, and the fix stuck for later ones[2]. No medical issues here, but if you’re handling old cards, just wash your hands after to avoid any ink residue irritation—nothing serious, as standard collector advice from sources like the Pokémon official site confirms basic hygiene keeps things safe.
Why chase a 4th Print specifically? Value skyrockets for anything vintage Base Set because supply dried up decades ago. A 4th Print Charizard holo in near-mint shape can fetch thousands at auction, way more than a later print Unlimited. It’s not quite 1st Edition money (those go for tens of thousands), but the 4th Print hits a sweet spot—rarer than mass Unlimited dumps but more common than Shadowless unicorns. Collectors grade them through PSA or BGS, and population reports show fewer high-grade 4th Prints surviving play wear. Silvering on edges? That’s normal aging from light bouncing off foil, not a fake sign—4th Prints show it evenly if authentic[1].
Diving deeper into the print sequence, here’s how experts break it down for Base Set:
First print: 1st Edition stamp, bold shadows, light blue backs. Super limited, mostly Japan imports turned English.
Second print: Still 1st Edition possible, but Shadowless variant emerges—no shadow, brighter holos.
Third print: Unlimited fully kicks in, shadows return lightly, blue backs deepen slightly.
Fourth print: Smoother foils, corrected errors like those Gengar ink blobs, UK-exclusive tweaks for consistency. Backs hit that balanced blue, art centering improves across sheets[1][2].
Later prints (5th and beyond) ramped up production, leading to more common Unlimited cards flooding garages worldwide. But the 4th Print marks the bridge—when Wizards ironed out kinks before going full mass-market.
Fakes trip up new collectors big time when hunting 4th Prints. Counterfeits mimic the blue back but add purple tints or sloppy dot patterns. Borders go neon or dull, fonts smudge, and holos lack depth—you can’t feel subtle texture on real 4th Print foils. Always check under magnification: genuine ink from that era has even rosettes, and the shine moves fluidly, not stiffly. Play wear like edge silvering or corner dings is fine; perfect cards from the 90s are myths unless sealed[1].
Holo specifics shine here too. Base Set holos from the 4th Print have that “smooth, classic art box holo with simple shine”—foil only in the character picture, not full art like modern cards. No cosmos patterns or star sparkles yet; those came in Neo sets. Reverse holos weren’t a thing—shine stayed front and center. Secret rares? Base Set didn’t have them; those are later with high set numbers like rainbow Charizards[1].
Errors make 4th Prints extra juicy. While the 4th fixed some, like Fossil crossovers, Base Set itself had wild ones carrying over. Inverted backs from sheets flipped upside down during printing affected Jungle sets but echoed Base production quirks. Double-printed backs on uncommons? Rare survivors from early Unlimited sheets, possibly pre-4th. A 4th Print with a holdover error? Collector gold—PSA grades them separately, and pops sta
