If you own or are thinking about buying a Charizard card from 1999 or 2000, knowing how to check if it’s real is key because fakes are everywhere, especially for this popular one. These cards come from the early Pokemon Trading Card Game sets printed by Wizards of the Coast, and the main ones to watch are from the Base Set, like the holographic Charizard numbered 4/102.[3][6] Start by looking at the basics before diving deeper.
First, figure out which exact Charizard you have because not all from those years are the same. The 1999 Base Set has a few versions: the original first edition with a gold star in the bottom left corner, the shadowless version without that shadow drop around the art, and the unlimited print run that’s most common.[1][5] The 2000 cards might be from Jungle or Fossil sets, but Charizard is mostly a Base Set star. Hold the card up to light and check the bottom left. If there’s a “1st Edition” stamp with a gold star, that’s rare and valuable, but fakes often mess this up by making the star too shiny or off-color.[5] Real first editions have a clean, matte gold star that doesn’t glow weirdly.
Next, read the copyright line at the very bottom of the card. For true 1999-2000 US prints, it says exactly “©1995-1999 Nintendo/Creatures Inc./GAME FREAK inc.” with no extra years or changes.[1] Fakes might add 2000 or later dates, or spell things wrong like “GAMEFREAK” without the space. Also look for the Wizards of the Coast logo or Topps mark at the bottom center on originals—no holographic security stamps, those came after 2003.[1][3] Tilt the card under bright light. The holo pattern on a real 1999 Charizard shifts smoothly from orange to yellow with Charizard’s wings sparkling in a dotted starburst effect. Cheap fakes have blurry holo that doesn’t move right or looks like a solid foil sticker.[1]
Feel the card’s texture and weight. Originals from that era use thick, crisp stock paper that bends slightly but snaps back firm. Run your finger across the surface—real holos have a subtle raised foil feel without bubbles or peeling edges.[2] Edges should be sharp and white, not fuzzy or yellowed from bad printing. Corners on unplayed cards stay pointed; any dings mean wear, but fakes often have factory-rounded corners from poor cutting.[2] Check under magnification with a 10x loupe if you have one. Real cards show tiny black printing dots from the old presses, while fakes use digital printing that’s too smooth.[1]
Look closely at the artwork by Ken Sugimori. Charizard’s face has specific details like the exact curve of his horns, the flame tail with layered shading, and eyes that reflect light naturally. Counterfeits copy this but mess up small things, like uneven fire colors or off-proportioned claws.[4] The text box has perfect black ink with no bleeding, and attack names like “Fire Spin” use the right font spacing. Compare side-by-side with high-res scans from trusted sites—mismatches in pixelation or color depth scream fake.[6]
For shadowless Charizards from late 1999, the background art has no black drop shadow outline, making it brighter and more valuable. First editions have both the stamp and shadow, but verify the drop shadow is crisp, not smudged.[1][5] Unlimited versions from 2000 reprints have the shadow and no stamp, printed in higher numbers so they’re easier to find but still worth checking.[3][6]
If it’s a promo or special version, like a McDonald’s 2000 Pikachu promo with serial numbers (not Charizard but similar era), low numbers like 001/XX boost value, but always check for even spacing in the numbering.[1] Autographed ones from conventions need pro authentication from JSA or PSA/DNA—don’t trust seller claims alone.[1]
Now, smell test it gently. Real old cards have a faint paper scent from age, not chemical ink whiffs from modern fakes printed yesterday.[1] Weigh it on a precise scale—authentic Base Set holos tip around 1.7-1.8 grams, fakes vary wildly.[2]
Buying smart helps avoid fakes from the start. Stick to sellers with high feedback on places like eBay or TCGplayer—over 99% positive, with return policies and clear photos from multiple angles.[1] Ask for close-ups of the copyright, holo shift, back, and edges. Red flags include prices way under market (ungraded Base Set Charizard runs $150-200 average, PSA 10 over $10,000), blurry pics, or no extra images offered.[1][6] Sealed booster boxes from 1999-2000 are safer for raw cards, as opening them yourself confirms authenticity.[1]
For high-value ones, get it graded by PSA, Beckett, or CGC. These companies slab it in tamper-proof cases after expert checks.[2][3] A PSA 10 means perfect corners, edges, surface, and centering—verify the slab by entering the cert number on PSA’s site to match the card details and ensure it’s not revoked.[2] Fake slabs exist, so always cross-check. Recent sales show PSA 10 1999 Charizards hitting $10,100 or more, but check sold listings for real prices.[2][6] Beckett lists the 1999 Base Unlimited #4 as a Wizards print, good baseline for comparison.[3]
If you suspect a fake after home checks, send it to a grader anyway—they authenticate even without full grading. Document everything: photos, seller chats, receipts for disputes.[1] Buyer reviews show fakes often fail PSA, with complaints about misleading photos or no returns.[1]
Dig into the back of the card. Real 1999-2000 backs have a clean blue pattern with sharp registration—no misaligned colors or white specks. The set symbol for Base Set is a solid black circle with “4” inside for Charizard, perfectly centered.[3][5] Fakes bleed ink or have pixel dots visible to the naked eye.
Centering matters a lot for value. Measure with a ruler or app: ideal is 60/40 side-to-side, 55/45 top-bottom for gem mint. Off-center cards drop grades fast.[2] Under blacklight, originals glow faintly blue-white; fakes might fluoresce yellow or not at all due to modern inks.
For first edition specifically, the stamp’s “Edition 1st” text has tiny serifs on letters, and the star has 16 points exactly—count them.[5] Japanese versions from 1999 like Beta or Crystal Charizard have different rules text, like four-energy Firespin without later changes, but US ones stick to English standards.[4]
Handle it right during checks: use cotton gloves to avoid fingerprints, lay on soft cloth, no bending. Store in sleeves and top-loaders away from su
